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France – Paris

Tucked away in Paris’s 13th arrondissement, Tempero, a canteen grocery store with a familiar name, has resurfaced in the capital. After leaving Station F a few years ago, Franco-Brazilian chef Alessandra Montagne opened her first restaurant, Nosso, followed by the new one, Tempero, just across the street. 

The warm atmosphere can be felt through the windows of this grocery store offering local produce and recipes with an international flavour. From feijoada to wines carefully selected by head sommeliers Aurélien Gil-Artagnan and Matthieu Di Nocera, Tempero is the place to go if you’re looking for an escape on your plate, especially this summer! 

As soon as we step through the door, we’re invited to take a seat at a small table offering a clear view of the bar, whose atmosphere is cheerful and festive for a Friday evening. And to kick off the evening, we decide on a pumpkin velouté and salmon tartare with beet cream. A smooth takeoff for a trip to Brazil, perfectly paired with a Portuguese white wine from Soalheiro.

With a broad smile, the waiter continues with a fish moqueca served with fragrant rice, a creamy coconut milk sauce and, of course, spices. For me, it’s the grilled chicken served with a light purée, taking me back to Brazil and awakening the “saudade*” so typical of this country of a thousand facets. Dishes straight out of Alessandra Montagne’s childhood, delicately constructed and served from the heart, offering boundless generosity.  

To end on a sweet note, we decide on a chocolate mousse and a flan or pudim for connoisseurs. A dessert rooted in Portuguese tradition and so delicious that it’s finished in just a few spoonfuls for an undisturbed return to earth. 

© Maki Manoukian

Before leaving Tempero (French for spice), we take a quick tour of the shelves displaying terrines, jars of osso buco, rillettes and farofa (manioc flour), to leave with a jar of feijoada for lunch with friends on Saturday. An exquisite cellar to eat and drink without moderation! 

*Brazilian expression expressing a feeling of great nostalgia.

24, promenade Claude-Lévi-Strauss, Paris 13e

Thomas Durin