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MATSUHISA MYKONOS

DAZZLING CULINARY FUSION

GREECE – MYKONOS

It’s not in Las Vegas, Aspen or Beverly Hills, but in Mykonos that we’re enjoying the celebrated cuisine of charismatic chef Nobu Matsuhisa, in the new setting of the no less famous Belvedere Hotel. Comfortable banquettes covered in a magnificent ochre-yellow fabric surround the pool amid lush, elaborate vegetation.

I was filled with impatience and growing curiosity.

First reaction, the menu is dense but has clear and distinct headings or should I say taste themes: “Matsuhisa Appetisers, Tacos, Special Sashimi, Tiradito, Tartar with Caviar, New Style Sashimi, Matsuhita Special Hot Dishes, Toban Yaki, Grilled and Wood Oven Roasted Dishes, Kushiyaki, Tempura Dishes, Sushi & Sashimi, Sushi Roll…”.

On the advice of the Manager, Michael Gerolymatos, who offers us a thorough explanation of Nobu Matsuhisa’s history and approach to cooking, we begin the festivities with a “White Fish Dry Miso”, yuzu, garlic chips, Greek olive oil, aromatic herbs. Quite simply, the perfect dish to make people love raw fish. This “Special Sashimi”, a sort of Japanese-style Peruvian ceviche, is fresh, spicy and lemony. Chiselled tastes, a delight. A magnificent introduction to the world of Chef Nobu San.

Then come two less surprising but equally delicious dishes: the “Chicken Tacos with Anticucho Sauce” (Peruvian sauce, a sort of spicy marinade) with seaweed, with a slight downside on the taco paste, as I prefer Mexican tacos, and the “New Style Sashimi Salmon” cooked with sesame and olive oil and chives. Simply delicious.

We had to try the tempura, and the choice fell on the Asparagus Tempura, so light, crispy on the outside and tender on the inside, a sensation of freshness and refined, precise tastes. 

Then I continue with one of the chef’s “signature” dishes, the caramelised “Black Cod Miso”, the fish perfectly cooked, its flesh pearly, crispy and melting, miso and yuzu sauce, ginger paste. What originality!

Dinner continues with a pleasant dizziness of gustatory pleasure.

I let myself be tempted by a sweet note with the Santorini Whisky Cappuccino (milk ice cream, cookie, espresso, whisky) to finish on a high note. A real clash of flavours, both sweet and hard-hitting. 

The taste buds continue to tingle long after this wonderful tasting experience at Matsuhisa Belvédère. The experience and talent of an uncompromising chef, combining with originality the codes of Japanese gastronomy with exotic flavours and techniques inspired by his travels in Latin America.

If only once in your life, let yourself be guided by Nobu Matsuhisa and discover his emotionally rich universe.

A must try whether here or elsewhere (note that there is one at the Royal Monceau in Paris, his first restaurant in France, opened in 2016).

belvederehotel.com

Antoine Blanc