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Two women photographers in New York

Since 1981, the Staley-Wise Gallery has been one of New York’s most renowned art galleries. Etheleen Staley and Takouhy Wise have made photography their specialty. For their inaugural exhibition 111 Wooster Street, they chose to highlight the work of Horst P. Horst. Certainly one of the greatest American fashion photographers. In 1990, the gallery moved. She moved to 100 Crosby Street, in a neo-Greek style building which was none other than the work of architect Thomas Stent.

This art gallery is internationally recognized. Its prestige is due to the quality of the photographic work it represents. It is a reference for amateurs, since it manages the body of work of 63 photographers. Among them, the greatest masters: Richard Avedon, Robert Doisneau, David Lachapelle, Bob Richardson … Her fame leads her to collaborate very regularly with public and private institutions, but also art foundations.

The current exhibition is celebrating the work of two female photographers. “2 Women of Style: Louise Dahl-Wolfe and Stephanie Pfriender Stylander” was launched on March 5. Two talented women from two different eras. More than 30 years apart, two visions of fashion photography.

An exhibition on modern photography

Louise Dahl-Wolfe is an important figure in American photography. She marked her time and her work is still admired today by the greatest collectors. A prestige that elevates her to the same rank as Richard Avedon. Portraits of celebrities, models and famous actors, these are all key moments that marked the journey of this woman.

Early in her career, she stood out for her work with the women’s magazine Harper’s Bazaar. With this woman, fashion photography knows a turning point. A pioneer in the field, she offers shots of her models by playing on the possibilities offered by natural light. From there are born different black and white photos, then in color.

In each photograph, a unique atmosphere emerges. It is also her adventurous soul that makes all the singularity of her works. By looking at these large fine and slender female silhouettes, we travel among the different continents. Among her models, striking women: Coco Chanel, Colette … But also famous men, including the great Spanish fashion designer Cristóbal Balenciaga.

In this exhibition, it is above all her portraits of models that are highlighted: Jean Patchett, Elizabeth Gibbons, Mary Jane Russell … But also, portraits of the 1930s more anchored in reality. In this series, a majority of strangers photographed in their daily lives

Stephanie Pfriender Stylander Dream, Grazia, New York, 2012

A new impulse for fashion photography

Stephanie Pfriender Stylander is from a different generation. As a teenager, she was influenced by the many Rock’n Roll concerts she attended. Above all, she  retains the unique universe that emerges from the shots taken by scene photographers. A vocation was born. During her studies, she was fortunate to be able to rub shoulders with the great photographer Art Kane. A decisive meeting for the rest of her journey.

Pfriender Stylander’s photographs stand out above all by their unique style. She began very early to make portraits of famous singers and actors. Her sources of inspiration are drawn from two cinematographic movements: Italian neorealism and the new French wave. The majority of her work has been widely distributed in most fashion magazines, including Vogue, Vanity Fair, British GQ, Glamor. So many journals that participated in the foundation of his photographic work.

In 2018, Galerie de l’Instant (a Parisian gallery specializing in photography) dedicated a personal exhibition to the photographer. She celebrated the mythical portraits of Kate Moss, in black and white, at the very beginning of her modeling career.

The emancipation of women

These photographs deliver a new vision of fashion. The models have evolved, we feel that the woman has changed posture within society.

This exhibition on fashion photography celebrates shots where models rub shoulders with the vastness of the city. The scope of the work presented covers the years 1991 to 2019. We find there the famous pictures she made for Harper’s Bazaar Uomo, a series in which she represents a love story of fashion on the streets of New York. . It is also a reflection on the vastness of the city.

An entirely different atmosphere emerges from the photos. In Dream, an elegant blonde model from the back is caught in the moment of her walk. The slight movement of her body contrasts with the rigidity of the building.

In the course, we find some famous portraits of Kate Moss and Eva Herzigova. But also, more introspective shots of Keith Richards and Joaquin Phoenix.

If you are visiting New York, we can only encourage you to visit this exhibition on the evolution of fashion photography, and to keep yourself informed of the exhibitions and events at Galerie Joseph.