A gastronomic address in Paris’s 11th arrondissement, where every element has been thought through and matured to offer each guest a sensory experience combining art, design and character. Here, we don’t just offer you a tasting of perfectly executed dishes, we also invite you to discover the entire universe of the ambitious and audacious chef, Maxime Bouttier.
Firstly, the choice of the name, Géosmine, evoking the power of that which cannot be seen. An excellent metaphor for the real definition, the chemical compound that gives earth its smell whether freshly ploughed or wet after a dry spell.
On the first floor, there’s a raw, minimalist ambience, with a large concrete bar imagined by the Chef and designed by Sonia Lafage, stone walls and a brick ceiling. Wooden tables and magnificent solid walnut chairs bring authenticity to the space. Upstairs, an open kitchen, again designed by the Chef, opens onto the second, more intimate room, ideal for group lunches or dinners.
The fully-glazed wine cellar, with over 14,000 references, gives the restaurant a real personality.
We begin our 8-step Carte Blanche menu, accompanied by a bottle of Arbois red wine (Le Bastard), with a first appetiser, a smoked eel tartlet, lemon sabayon, Sarrazin and Espelette pepper puff pastry, very original, crisp and full of power in the mouth.
Also, Rillettes de cochon en cromesci, pointe d’ail noir, a plate of character, the black garlic is worked here like a mayonnaise, I finish it with a teaspoon because the regression is so total.
Then comes the first course, in the “apéritifs” category, pigeon leg, aioli, whitefish eggs, original and tasty, meat crispy on the outside and melting on the inside, served with two homemade butters, lemon, Espelette pepper for the first and forest for the second. Interesting combinations.
Then, the two starters, the first with pointed cabbage, cucumber, herb mayonnaise and gherkin, very nicely presented, revealing different textures and a well-mastered balance between freshness, acidity and the roundness provided by the herb mayonnaise. Each condiment adds a pep to the plate, giving it depth and character.
Then comes the second dish, Moules marinière, olive, cosmos, an intriguing statement: the mussels (from Mont Saint Michel) are first cooked in a fennel broth, then undergo a second flame-cooking to bring that smoky, burnt aspect to the dish. Accompanied by a dizzying curry sauce of, yellow wine and vanilla oil, it’s simply divine.
We continue with the main course, Rouget de Ligne, coco de paimpol, coquillage, cèpes and jus de tête, a sauce bonne femme, slightly twisted, once again, surprising and perfectly mastered, a fabulous combination of land and sea.
We end our Carte Blanche menu with a dessert of chocolate, vanilla, fleur de sel and praline, combining different textures with different flavours, ultra-regressive.
We’re dealing with a young chef who dares, without compromise, to offer creative cuisine combining boldness and temperament. A table to be tried urgently, before the stars drive up prices.
Antoine Blanc
Géosmine
71, rue de la Folie-Méricourt, Paris 11e
instagram.com/geosmine.restaurant
France – Paris