New York Fashion Week is in full swing. From September 10th to 15th, 2026, the American fashion capital presents the Spring/Summer 2027 collections in an edition where established houses, highly anticipated comebacks, and the new generation come together. Just days before London, Milan, and then Paris, New York kicks off Fashion Month with a style that seems to want to combine heritage and freedom, sophistication and casualness.
In New York, September traditionally marks the true start of the fashion season. This year, the official New York Fashion Week calendar features 70 shows and presentations, in addition to numerous events organized alongside the main program. Ralph Lauren and Coach even got a head start by unveiling their collections as early as September 9, the day before the official opening. The week will conclude on September 15 with Thom Browne. A packed edition, then, whose first few days already allow us to discern several directions for Spring/Summer 2027.
Ralph Lauren, American elegance plays with its own codes
Ralph Lauren remains one of the foremost observers of a certain idea of American style. For Spring 2027, the designer isn't so much seeking to reinvent his vocabulary as to create new encounters within it. Refinement meets everyday wear, masculine meets feminine, and precious meets casual.
A colorful brocade jacket is paired with white cargo pants, while a velvet jacket adorned with feathers is worn with dark, generously proportioned jeans. Corsets, striped vests, and references to a more historical elegance disrupt the apparent simplicity of the silhouettes. At Ralph Lauren, luxury lies less in accumulation than in this freedom to combine worlds that, on paper, shouldn't necessarily meet.
This blurring of boundaries may provide one of the first guiding principles of this Fashion Week: designers seem less interested in a single trend than in the possibility of creating a personal wardrobe.
Coach celebrates 85 years between memories and New York youth
At Coach, the anniversary is important: the brand is celebrating its 85th year. But Stuart Vevers is avoiding the expected commemorative runway show. He prefers to work on memory, nostalgia, and the traces that clothes leave in a life.
Her references are both personal and cinematic: a wedding at City Hall, confetti left on a sidewalk, old photographs, or Meg Ryan wrapped in a large khaki coat. This intimate memory merges with the identity of a house deeply connected to New York.
Coach continues to cultivate an urban wardrobe that blends the brand's heritage with a more youthful sensibility. Through this anniversary collection, the past is not treated as a static archive but as a raw material that can be transformed. This approach is particularly apt in a season where many brands are revisiting their history without succumbing to mere nostalgia.
Calvin Klein: back to basics
At Calvin Klein Collection, Veronica Leoni, on the contrary, opts for simplicity. After more complex designs in previous seasons, the designer returns to the fundamentals that have built the identity of the American brand: clean lines, essential garments, and an absence of superfluous ornamentation.
Slip dresses, pencil skirts, trousers, T-shirts, and jackets form the backbone of the collection. Clothing returns to an almost radical simplicity. This minimalism, however, is not nostalgic. Rather, it serves as a reminder of how contemporary the codes established by Calvin Klein can still appear when stripped of all unnecessary embellishment.
In a Fashion Week where image and staging take on ever greater importance, this search for simplicity appears almost as a statement.
Michael Kors looks at modernist America
Michael Kors takes a different approach. Presented in the sculpture garden of the Museum of Modern Art, his spring-summer 2027 collection delves into the modernist imagination of the 1960s. Edie Sedgwick and Nico rub shoulders with Alexander Calder, Henri Matisse, Carmen Herrera, and the New York architecture of Lever House in his references.
This visual culture is expressed through clean, often asymmetrical cuts and a palette that contrasts black and white with vibrant reds, yellows, greens, and blues. Accessories also contribute to this dialogue with design: some of the metal handles on the bags, in particular, evoke the tubular furniture of Marcel Breuer.
Fashion, art, architecture and design thus respond to each other in a collection that reminds us how much these disciplines continue to influence each other.
Tory Burch, between femininity and sportswear
At Tory Burch, the tension lies elsewhere. The designer contrasts a deliberately opulent femininity with the efficiency of utilitarian clothing and American sportswear.
Presented in the Sunken Garden designed by Isamu Noguchi, the collection also looks back to the mid-20th century, but with a certain irreverence. Elegance becomes more decorative, more accessorized, sometimes unconventional. Tory Burch proclaims a search for joy and optimism, as if clothing could momentarily offer an escape from a particularly difficult international context.
This mix of glamour, humor and pragmatism contributes to the overall impression that emerges from these first days: New York does not seem to want to impose a dominant silhouette for next spring.
A Fashion Week between heritage and renewal
The September 2026 edition is also marked by several returns and new arrivals. Diane von Furstenberg notably returns to the official calendar with Henry Zankov's first collection as creative director, while Tommy Hilfiger, Monse, and ThreeASFOUR also make their comeback. International designers such as Magda Butrym, Conner Ives, and Sabyasachi join the New York schedule.
This diversity is essential to the week's identity. Alongside major American brands, New York continues to strive to give a platform to emerging designers and perspectives from around the world. The CFDA's new policy banning fur for brands on the official calendar also comes into effect this season.
While Fashion Week isn't over yet, an idea is already emerging: spring/summer 2027 might be less about spectacular trends and more about a search for balance. Minimalism and decoration, nostalgia and novelty, sportswear and sophistication coexist without necessarily seeking to dominate each other.
From New York to Paris, a September dedicated to creativity
After New York, the international calendar will continue its journey to London and Milan before arriving in Paris, where the Spring/Summer 2027 Women's Fashion Week will take place from September 28 to October 6.
In Paris, September is already bringing disciplines together. Paris Design Week has just transformed the capital into a laboratory for contemporary design, particularly in the Marais district. Galerie Joseph , a partner and host of numerous creative events, is contributing to this vibrant atmosphere through its various spaces. After design, fashion will soon take center stage: showrooms, presentations, events, and pop-up stores will in turn take over Paris and the Marais during Fashion Week.
After New York, the fashion calendar continues in Paris, where the houses and young labels are already preparing their presentations: discover our guide to choosing and booking a showroom during Paris Fashion Week.
From Manhattan to Paris, September confirms its status as a pivotal month for international creation: the month where fashion, design, art and architecture intersect, and where the aesthetics of the coming season begin to take shape.
Are you looking for an unusual place in Paris?
Discover the Galerie Joseph spaces in the Marais and find a venue suitable for your launch, showroom, exhibition, pop-up store or private event.
