Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello is reinventing the codes of women’s wardrobes by drawing inspiration from men’s wardrobes to present its spring-summer 2024 collection. The designer drew his ideas from women who paved the way by infiltrating fields strictly reserved for men, such as aviation and the automotive sector. Pioneering women such as Amelia Earhart and Adrienne Bollard.
Through the simplicity of the pieces, Anthony Vaccarello returned to the house’s roots, imagining day-to-day looks straight out of couture, with loose silhouettes that gave the models a strong, pragmatic attitude.
The collection was transformed into the quintessence of elegance, with an assertive sophistication in which elements of the men’s wardrobe were taken up to become enduringly feminine. Variations on the safari jacket, designed by Yves Saint Laurent in 1967, joined the ensemble, not forgetting the jumpsuits.
The designs are derived from utilitarian wardrobes, but by becoming belted, they create delicate silhouettes. Cotton and linen, the main materials of this SS24 line, are joined by earthy colours ranging from olive to brown, sand and chalk. Leather gloves, high heels, accessories and aviator bonnets round off the collection’s refinement.
The key words of this collection are without doubt simplicity, purity and minimalism. A presentation anchored in a mineral decor for a moment of pure elegance.
France – Paris
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Thomas Durin