The sciura? This fantasized figure of the mature Milanese woman, sporting furs and gilding, was invited to the heart of the latest Trussardi fashion show. Its two artistic directors, Benjamin A. Huseby and Serhat Işık, wanted to explore juxtaposition and friction by confronting concepts they are not necessarily comfortable with, on the occasion of their Fall-Winter 2023 collection. They then chose to decode and recode this silhouette so characteristic of the Lombardy capital, which frequents the neighborhoods and streets near the Palazzo Trussardi alla Scala.
The collection presents silhouettes and conventions from the archives reworked in a modern and more obvious touch. Duchess satin and nylon have a liquid leather look and feel, as a nod to the founding material of the house, which originally specialized in leather gloves. The color palette travels from brown to blueberry, ecru and burgundy.
Reminiscent of the faded tapestries often found in the city’s palaces, a traditional Gobelin jacquard is inspired by historic Italian depictions of greyhounds and is found on jackets with voluminous collars, oversized bags, and a cover skirt.
Casentino wool coats, a fabric that dates back to the 14th century, are modernized with exaggerated hourglass silhouettes and oversized collars. Coated nylon comforter coats have a leather-like sheen. A hazelnut-colored faux fur – Sciura’s quintessential fur coat – is featured on a men’s model. A beautiful tribute to this undeniable Milanese figure.