Created by Lucie Paulhan – 29 years old, trained sommelier, Parisian and epicurean – and the chef Ryuya Ono – 31 years old, formerly of Table and Maison Sota – Magma is the new fusion address in the Oberkampf district.
As soon as we arrive, we are welcomed by a team of young enthusiasts in a sober and minimalist decor with clean lines: wood, marble, brass, and pretty fir green benches surround a dozen tables, all of which have been taken by storm. The artistic direction of the place was conceived by the duo of artists Esther Michaud and Alexandre Zhu, residents at Poush Manifesto.
We had the choice between a tasting menu with 7 surprise courses, and the a la carte menu. We took the second option, and before starting our first course, we sampled a tasty appetizer: Japanese squash emulsion with olive oil, very soft but with a strong taste. Then, as a first course, we tried Kermancy oysters, deliciously prepared with kiwano, a tropical plant of the cucurbit family with a taste similar to passion fruit, also called «African horned cucumber.» A real explosion in the mouth softened by a zest of raw cream.
The second starter is more classic, and yet, here again, we discover a daring association between Japanese radish, red beet, parmesan cream, and saffron, which surprises our taste buds. As for the dishes, the veal with sweet pepper is simply exquisite, while the poached guinea fowl, mussel sauce, and savoy cabbage dares to be a gentle mix of land and sea, delicate and powerful at the same time. Finally, for dessert, the sweet potato and coriander ice cream millefeuille intrigues us… Verdict? How to tell you… Regressive? Total addiction for the violet sweet potato cream and sublime surprise with the ice cream ! A table of daring associations, balanced with delicacy and accuracy. An address to discover without delay..
Mélissa Burckel
