To the exuberantrance of the 1980s is followed by the ambivalence of the nineties, between pleasure and purity. Marketing and globalization permeate the following decades. A context in which niche perfumery emerges.
Ecology, AIDS... In search of purity, the 1990 saw the emergence of a serene sensuality, far removed from the exacerbated sensuality of the 1980s. A wave of freshness swept around aquatic notes, like L'Eau d'Issey (1992) and androgynous perfumery, in the wake of CK One (1994). Very much in vogue, fruity florals embody a wise femininity, from Trésor by Lancôme (1990) to J'adore by Dior (1999).
In 1992, Thierry Mugler's Angel shook up perfumery with its original combination of praline and patchouli. It was the beginning of the gourmand era, comforting in uncertain times. In the 2000s, this trend began to take hold, with caramel (Flowerbomb, 2005) and fruity notes even making their way into chypre structures. Examples include the best-selling Coco Mademoiselle (2001) and Miss Dior (2005).
Glycemic indexes exploded the following decade, with the success of Lancôme's La Vie Est Belle (2012) and Black Opium (2014). Powerful amber woods are also making their way into men's wardrobes, with "muscular" juices like Paco Rabanne's Invictus (2013).
On the bangs of this race for profitability, a confidential perfumery is emerging. In the 2000s, "niche" brands such as Diptyque, L'Artisan Parfumeur and Frédéric Malle cultivated a singular, authentic style. This boom is threatening the major houses, which are creating their own exclusive ranges.
But this trend has not escaped the marketing king: brands are proliferating. A veritable goldmine, oud wood, highly prized in the Middle East, made its mark in the West in the 2010s. Nothing could stop this frenzy of launches, not even the health crisis. But it marks a return to cosier scents, in both selective and niche markets.
Sophie Normand
