This may be his last Parisian project before moving to Buis-les-Baronnies in the Drôme next year: Pierre Jancou, the “bad boy” of gastronomy, recognizable by his tattooed arms, has taken up residence for the summer at Chambre Noire’s new address, “Le Studio,” still in the 11th arrondissement of Paris.
Armed with an oven and two small plates, and assisted by his second-in-command, Johanna Solal, the Franco-Swiss chef offers a family cuisine, “from dad” as he likes to say, with strong Italian influences. “I am Italian without being Italian. For me it is important to eat pasta every day,“he insists. The man who set up the Racines bistro in 2007, then Vivant in 2011, but also Heimat and Achille, offers some of his iconic dishes here, such as “Zoé’s cake,” named after his eldest daughter. A decadent recipe, thought of as a baked chocolate mousse, served for example with mezcal cream, or olive oil, and toasted bread croutons. Gnocchi galore, ultra-gourmet pies, and sunny crostini are also part of the menu. A summer collaboration that is not due to chance:“I have a lot in common with the young people of Chambre Noire, who are very extreme about wine, with a very pure selection of natural wines, without sulphites or inputs,“says the 51-year-old chef. In fact, he has put some of his own onto the wine list of this dashing dining room, where, as soon as the new season starts, you will be able to sip some fine Ardèche wines.
Studio Chambre Noire 4, boulevard Jules-Ferry, 75011 Paris Open from Thursday to monday, only for dinner