Partager l'article

Chanel Manifesto at the Galliera Palace

For its reopening after two years of work, the Palais Galliera celebrates Gabrielle Chanel.
This eagerly awaited retrospective – the first in Paris dedicated to the designer – will bring together an exceptional selection of more than 350 pieces from around the world to present a style that has revolutionized fashion and women’s allure. 

The jersey sailor dress, women’s trousers, low-waisted evening gowns and, of course, the famous little black dress or the tweed suit … It’s impossible to tell the history of twentieth-century fashion without invoking Gabrielle Chanel because of her influence in the world of fashion. Her simple and flowing wardrobe freed the female silhouette and installed women in the twentieth, if not the twenty-first century. The strength of this extraordinary designer is that she knew how to live with the times, to have sensed the fashions and accompanied the movement of female emancipation while setting herself up as a model. From the opening of her first milliner’s workshop in 1909 to her death in 1971, Gabrielle Chanel never stopped refining a resolutely modern conception of elegance.From her beginnings in 1912 in Deauville, then in Biarritz and Paris, Gabrielle Chanel introduced a new silhouette.

The woman who revolutionized fashion with her sober, simple and fluid lines said: “There is no other beauty than the freedom of the body.”

Favoring comfort and playing with masculine codes, Chanel shortens skirts, abandons the waist and designs functional and practical outfits, so that women can wear clothing while remaining what they are. In doing so, she founded a “new pact between costume and clothing”, in the words of Edmond Charles-Roux, and propelled the women’s wardrobe into modernity. The sought-after sobriety of her outfits is also synonymous with elegance: accessories, jewelry combining rhinestones, semi-precious stones and fine jewelry embellish the very studied simplicity of the Chanel silhouette.

At the same time, Gabrielle Chanel was one of the first great couturiers to create her own perfumes, starting with the iconic N°5, intended as a “woman’s perfume with a woman’s scent”, which became the world’s best-selling perfume as early as 1929. A hard worker, this designer, who became rich by inventing the “poor genre”, built an empire on a name that became a symbol of French elegance that was both chic and modern. 

The exhibition looks back at the career of this proudly independent woman, who created outfits that went against the tide of her time. The first part of the retrospective presents, in chronological order, the iconic pieces created by Gabrielle Chanel that have shaped the contours of modern femininity: from the jersey sailor’s jacket of 1916 to the sophisticated dresses of the 1930s, until Chanel’s return to couture in 1954, after 10 years of exile, where she reaffirmed her position with the tweed suit, a couture vision that broke with Dior’s new look.

Ten photographic portraits show the evolution of her style while highlighting the role played by Gabrielle Chanel‘s image in the diffusion of her creations.
An entire room will be dedicated to N°5, while the second part of the exhibition will focus on Chanel grammar through the pieces and accessories essential to her signature. The exceptional selection of pieces from museums and collections around the world is a complete manifesto of the vision and values of the timeless Chanel, who has undeniably left her mark on French history, far beyond fashion.

As Malraux predicted: “From this century, in France, three names will remain: de Gaulle, Picasso and Chanel.”

Symbols of luxury and French-style elegance, more than 350 pieces gathered together, illustrate how the great designer was also able to convey through her creations committed messages that illustrate a certain way of being.  

“Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto”
October 1, 2020 to March 14, 2021

Tuesday to Sunday: 10.00 a.m. – 6.00 p.m.
Evening: Thursday and Friday until 9.00 p.m.
Closed on Mondays, December 25 and January 1.

Palais Galliera – Musée de la Mode
10, avenue Pierre-1 e -de-Serbie, Paris 16 e
01 56 52 86 00

9 Parfum N°5 1921 CHANEL